Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Treasure Hunt (9.2.10)

No pirates this time, but, we simply can’t be in the Caribbean without having some type of treasure hunt. Just to the east of Pearls lies a black sand beach and the site of a major archeological find. Arawak Indian artifacts previously found from this spot date back to the 1st through 4th centuries A.D. We wanted to unearth some of these treasures, but, the odds were not in our favor since kids and geologists alike have searched this area for years. We met resistance only from a momma sand crab who was not too happy for us to be traipsing all over her territory. Although we didn’t find any intact pieces (all the good loot had been taken already), broken pieces of pottery were everywhere and easy to spot. I even found an old cricket bat that we tried to bring home (until it was confiscated in San Juan/US customs).

Monday, September 13, 2010

Pearls Airport (9.2.10)


Pearls Airport was Grenada’s first landing strip and was located in a little town on the eastern Atlantic side, Grenville. US troops invaded Grenada at Pearls in 1893 (under Ronald Reagan’s rule) as a part of “Operation Urgent Fury” after the execution of the Prime Minister Bishop. There is much controversy surrounding this invasion “to liberate Grenadian civilians and rescue the American medical students from danger.” Nevertheless, this spot marks the historical landmark of the invasion. It stands abandoned today, with exception of goats and cows grazing by derelict planes (and, the occasional Finks children).


Sunday, September 12, 2010

Back for More (9.2.10)


After our morning classes, we hired Boney to take us back to Grand Etang (one never knows when the next opportunity to feed the monkies may come again). Even though we’d done this before, I can’t describe the amazement and awe I felt for these creatures. “Small face,” as named by Boney, was the only monkey who responded to his call. We’d met him only two days before. He felt more comfortable this time and stayed longer with us, even allowing the kids to sit next to him for several minutes. His diet (this visit) consisted of a few bananas plus a mint chocolate candy which he unwrapped himself with his hands (while holding his banana with his feet, of course). Several tourists came to peek until Small Face had enough and moved himself to a safe tree branch nearby. Boney was concerned (because usually there is more than just one monkey) that the hunters may have been after some of this bunch. We certainly hope not!

Thursday, September 9, 2010

La Sagesse (9.1.10)

A shaded quiet beach on the Atlantic side of the island was where we chose to spend our last non-teaching day. We were the only ones at La Sagesse when we arrived. We took Kim Jungkind with us and ordered fresh lobster for lunch (yum, by the way!). Harrison commanded the rain to come and a huge squall line went through just as we begin to eat. Just as with most Caribbean rains, the sun was out again as quickly as it hid. Although the sea was not very clear, the water was warm and shallow, and peacefulness abounded. With all the hurricane activity going on around us, we had some surf! In fact, the kids invented their own version of surfing using the available kayaks. Truth be told, we all experienced wipe-outs, but that didn’t stop our party.

Friday, September 3, 2010

Lost and Found (8.31.10)

Seven days to the day that we left Memphis, Grayson’s luggage arrived. The bag was found in Salt Lake City (hmmm.. wonder how it got there?) and it took so long to get to us because neither Delta nor American wanted to take responsibility for the bag’s misadventure (we know the inconvenient truth). When she saw that her bag had finally arrived, she jumped up and down and hugged it as if she’d been reunited with a long lost friend. For having very little clothing up to this point (one outfit that we would wash nightly and hang out to dry), the girl was a complete trouper!

Crater Lake, Grand Etang (8.31.10)

Because this island is of volcanic origin, three crater lakes can be found here. Boney took us to the lake atop the rainforest. Bizarre myths are woven around this natural wonder and some religious cults continue to make “sacrifices” at the waters edge each year. Scientists aren’t exactly sure where the main water source for the lake comes from, as a great deal more water flows out of the lake than comes in through the only known inlet. Nevertheless, Crater Lake is home to many creatures, including tilapia and enormous coy fish. Boney taught us how to catch a small tilapia with our bare hands!

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Monkey! (8.31.10)

Lloyd and I were fortunate to get introduced to Mr. Boney, a local who would become our tour guide and great source of knowledge over the next 3 days. Boney drove us to Concord Falls, and then up to Grand Etang (the jungle rainforest) where he is known personally by about 9 monkeys. All Boney had to do was honk his horn and yell “YO!” as loud as he could and when we stopped, a little friend appeared out of nowhere. He took a banana from Grayson, peeled, and ate it. When Harrison offered him a second, he took it in his mouth and ran on. I can’t tell you how beyond amazing this experience was.

Concord Falls (8.31.10)

We did eventually make it to the spectacular waterfall (without a guide, Go Lloyd)! My camera could not depict the height nor magnitude of where we were in this moment. We all took a cool dip in the fresh water and swam with the salamanders and fresh water eels although, we only spied the salamanders (we’ll have to take the locals word for it on the eel part). The water was COLD!

It’s a hike! (8.31.10)

Lloyd had not hiked up to the upper waterfall at Concord Falls since he was a student here in the early 90s. We were told we couldn’t make it without a guide, however, when he wanted to charge us $40 US, Lloyd said confidently, “We know this hike” (often wrong, never in doubt)! A small machete cut grass path marked our way on the 45 minute hike up. Lush and unspoiled vegetation with unbelievable terraced agriculture lay on either side of the trail. On the way up, we saw callilou, mango, navigation flowers, nutmeg, papaya, banana, and cocoa trees (probably more and we’ve lost track). The kids looked for monkeys every time the bamboo would clink together, making a noise from up above. They were troopers! Climbing boulders, crossing streams, and hugging steep cliffs were a part of this experience.

Appreciation (8.30.10)


When you are traveling and out of your own environment, there is something magical that happens--you notice your surroundings more, listen more, and appreciate stillness. Lloyd and I believe that we live in a toxic environment. There is too much stimulation, air conditioning, and not enough down time. Sweet moments occurred on the ride back to Grenada. The kids and I quietly viewed the scenery and took in all the fresh air the seas could offer us. Fun was had just by sitting still (and I can tell you that doesn’t happen in Memphis with my two)!

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Pier Jumpers (8.30.10)

Our day on Carriacou was cut short, because the only way back to Grenada was the Osprey which ferried out at 3:30 pm. While we were waiting to board on the ferry dock, some local kids were jumping off the pier and swimming. It was so hot, and since we had our swim suits on anyway, the kids took turns jumping and swimming with the locals. Mom jumped off too, but, that picture is just too unattractive to post! But, I did survive the 12 foot fall, no problem, mon! It was the getting out that was the problem. Lucky for me, there were some big boys there to help.

Scottish Ancestors (8.30.10)

Carriacouans are mainly of African slave descent, with the exception of a small village with Scottish influence. These locals are renowned for their seafaring and boat-building skills. We traveled by tour taxi to the community of Winward where the Scottish ancestors still live and build wooden boats today. Old windmills and cemeteries from the early inhabitants still remain today. We searched for our friends (the Campbells) relatives, and found Stewarts who built boats and made music. Could it be????

Refreshments (8.30.10)


For all of you out there who love Ting, this one is for you!

Dinghy Drivers (8.30.10)

So, if opposites attract, it makes sense that since Joy (owner of Hard Wood Bar on Paradise Beach) was delightful, her husband was on the other end of the spectrum. He barely spoke two words to us on our dinghy ride out to Sandy Island, and would not make eye contact, nor hint of a smile. Just when we thought that he had the personality of a callilou (green spinach like plant that is grown down here), he surprised us by winking at Grayson on the way back to Paradise Beach and asked her if she wanted to drive. She jumped at the chance, and so did her big brother.

Sandy Island (8.30.10)

There are two islands in the BVI (where our hearts are now because of Hurricane Earle) that bear the name “Sandy”. Sandy Spit and Sandy Cay are well known to us. Add to our list “Sandy Island”, which we explored quickly while waiting for our lunch. The snorkel was much like what we are used to in the BVI. It was all a grand play ground with the pelicans, seagulls, fish, crab, and sea urchins.

Paradise Beach (8.30.10)

The locals claim that Paradise Beach is the place to go when in Carriacou. A relatively deserted beach, it is tranquil, blue, and amazingly beautiful. It was a favorite for the kids because there were beach dogs (imagine)! We landed at Hard Wood Bar, owned by Joy and her husband, who offered to cook lunch for us, while we rode out to Sandy Island to snorkel (more about that island to come). Who could argue with that?

Carriacou (8.30.10)

Another of the tri-state islands that Grenada belongs to is Carriacou (pronounced CARRY-ah-coo). Its name comes from a name given to it by the Amerindians which means “land surrounded by reefs”. Underwater coral and reef systems surrounding the island are rated among the best in the world, and since we were so close, we thought we’d take a look. We woke up at dawn thirty to get to town so that we could catch the only ferry, The Osprey, across the sea. It was a big deal to the kids to sit up top, and so we baked in the sun for an hour and a half on our way over.








Upon arrival, one might assume there is not much to do, however, we found plenty to occupy our time.